Cliveden

The Cliveden reach is one of those heart stoppingly beautiful pieces of scenery that England does so very well.  As you leave Boulters Lock and head up river you will be surrounded by forests and islands with bankside moorings set into little crescents along their sides.  Some are very deep, so don't be put off pointing your bow in to have a look at a mooring if you think you'd like it.  As you round the long bend the scenery on the starboard bank climbs dramatically, forming coves for the gorgeous cottages that dot the waters edge.  But don't let your eye wander the water level for too long, as the sight of the house at the top of the hill, gazing down on the reach is spectacular.  The golden tower top catches the light and its rays seem to bless the countryside around it.  As you get closer to the house you'll see the lawns attached to Cliveden that sweep down to the water - this means you're out of moorings, so if you want to stop for a while you'll have to head back down stream a little.

The National Trust charges for moorings, and they come round to collect late at night or early in the morning.  It is only £6, and your ticket gives you a pass to the grounds. 

The house has several gardens featuring roses, topiary, statuary, water gardens, a formal parterre and numerous informal vistas, woodland and riverside walks.  Bring your own oxygen tent if you want to face the 172 steps of Yew Walk up to the house, where you can buy a ticket to view inside for only a pound or two.  The house is open between 11.00 and 18.00.  You are asked not to venture into the house before 11.00 - as it is an hotel and they like to offer their guests privacy in which to breakfast.  Apparently they serve a very nice elevenses though!  The licensed conservatory restaurant is open between 11.00 and 17.00 hours, and there is a shop adjacent to the main car park, which opens between 12.00 and 17.30.

The present house is the third on the site, and was built by Charles Barry for the Duke of Sutherland in 1851.  It’s last owner, before it was given to the National Trust, was Nancy, Lady Astor.  Some of you may remember the house being the place where the infamous Profumo affair began in the 60’s. 

On  a point of interest, Joyce Grenfell's mother was a cousin of Lady Astor.  When the blitz became too heavy Joyce moved to one of the cottages in the grounds.  For those of a cinematic bent, you may recognise the house from the film “Carrington”.

Cliveden itself is now a very expensive hotel, offering rooms at the cost of a second mortgage.  But what a romantic place to spend a honeymoon!  If you're in the super rich bracket you can join the A list, such as Sting, and rent one of the cottages for a summer break.  Don't ask, I haven't got a clue how much, I don't even want to know.  I suspect, however, that you could probably buy a decent time share for the same price.

If you have brought dogs, please note that you are required to keep them under close control and out of the formal garden.  They are not welcome in the house or restaurant, unless they are guide dogs.